Monday, December 11, 2017
Featured, Grapes

Roussanne

Roussanne, one of the grapes at the heart of many a white wine from the southern Rhône Valley, remains among the more obscure grape varieties thanks to the lack of ubiquity of white wines from southern France. Its name is derived from the russet hue that its berries acquire when they reach maturity.
A first-rate [...]

News

Duval-Leroy Set to Exploit Second-Best

You’ve gotta love The Onion! Going to college in Chicago in the early ’90s meant that The Onion (which started in Madison, WI) was my comic meat every week. Even after it caught on nationwide around the turn of the millennium, it kept its edge, perhaps becoming even snarkier. Here, America’s Finest [...]

Featured, Tastings, Wine & Food Pairing

Wine of Small Interest…

…which should be of larger interest, but these are the realities, I suppose. Matteo Correggia, who is himself no longer with us (a tragic loss of a young winemaker, father, and regional standard bearer), is one of the Italian Piedmont’s most important producers. Based in the Roero, the Correggia estate makes a broad [...]

Featured, Tastings, Wine & Food Pairing

Wine of Small Interest…

…which should be of larger interest, but these are the realities, I suppose. Matteo Correggia, who is himself no longer with us (a tragic loss of a young winemaker, father, and regional standard bearer), is one of the Italian Piedmont’s most important producers. Based in the Roero, the Correggia estate makes a broad [...]

Featured, Overthinking

Unraveling a Mystery: Terroir

The word terroir is an outrageously overused term by wine retailers, sommeliers, wine writers, and knowledgeable amateurs, and it deserves a definition and a bit of deconstruction. We use the term in two distinct ways, and this is a source of trouble insofar as it makes the overall concept difficult to explain. I [...]

The New Chablis Négoce

I tried a line-up of 1er and Grand Cru Chablis earlier this week that were new entries in the resurgent negociant trade. For decades negociants in Burgundy–more specifically, those who were not also growing their own fruit–were, in far too many cases, little more than swill merchants. That has changed dramatically over the [...]

A Gift from Beaujolais

I have long been a fan of Beaujolais–well, Beaujolais of the non-Nouveau variety, at least. I don’t have to scramble to explain the Nouveau/non-Nouveau nomenclature so often any more, what with the annual decline in popularity of Nouveau’s arrivé-ing, and the coinciding (if not exactly commensurate) rise in popularity of Cru Beaujolais and its [...]

Franco-Italian Wine

I apologize for the infrequency of posting of late, but summer break from school keeps me occupied with my kids, and much as I love writing about wine, they deserve better than an absentee father, which is what I’d be otherwise. However, greater frequency is imminent. Speaking of patriarchs, yesterday I was drinking [...]

The Dog-Days: 2003 in Europe

The dog-days of summer are relieving themselves on my front door. I hurried into the house just now, trying to elude the heat, and started thinking about the 2003 vintage in Europe. I don’t want to sound like I think fondly of it–no one should, given the humanitarian toll exacted upon Europe, France [...]

A Spittoon from Tbilisi

It’s easy to draw the wrong conclusion from this fun plug of Georgian wine…

World Cup of Wine

What to drink during the World Cup…. Does soccer immediately suggest beer the way that baseball does (or football, or hockey for that matter)? Not really, though now that I think about it, I have noticed that in England there is much imbibing of beer during soccer matches. I suppose this is [...]

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